Can a beginner climb Nevado Mateo?

Yes. Mateo is PD and beginner-suitable, with mainly nice snow slopes — though it is physically hard at 5150m and you climb roped, in crampons, with an ice axe. Some years there are short sections of steep hard ice the guide helps you with.

Is it really a one-day climb?

Yes. With an early 2am start and a 2½ hour drive to the Punta Olímpica tunnel, you can summit and return to Huaraz the same day, by mid-afternoon.

Expedition Dossier

Nevado Mateo Climb 5150m — 1 Day

Q: How should I acclimatise first?

You must already be well acclimatised. We recommend a trek of at least 3 days or a series of day hikes to higher altitudes beforehand; we can organise these for you.

Would you like to try some climbing in the Cordillera Blanca but have no time for a multi-day peak? Nevado Mateo (5150m) is an exhilarating, physically challenging climb you can do in a single day from Huaraz.

It is suitable for beginners, with nice snow slopes and — some years — short sections of steep hard ice, set in the spectacular Ulta Valley among Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Chacraraju and Ulta.

Duration

1 Day (Huaraz to Huaraz)

Grade

PD / Moderate snow — beginner-suitable, good fitness required

Highest Point

5150m

Ulta Valley · Cordillera Blanca

A real summit in a single day

Grade: PD — beginner-suitable
Duration: 1 day from Huaraz
Summit: 5150m
Access: the Punta Olímpica tunnel (4740m)
Guiding: local UIAGM guides

We grade Mateo physically Hard: although beginner-suitable, the 5150m altitude is demanding, and you climb roped, in crampons, with an ice axe — true mountaineering, not a “trekking peak”. The reward is a broad summit with spectacular close views of the giants of the Huascarán National Park, all in one big day.

Expedition Logistics

Essential Trekking Notes & Rules

Acclimatisation

You must be well acclimatised to climb above 5000m, even when the climbing is not steep. We recommend a trek of at least 3 days, or a series of day hikes to higher altitudes, beforehand; we can organise these if needed.

The Day

An early 2am departure and 2½ hour drive through Carhuaz and Shilla into the Ulta Valley reaches the Punta Olímpica tunnel (4740m). The climb leaves from the tunnel.

Your Guide

The guide in charge of your climb is one of our local, experienced and professional UIAGM International Mountain Guides.

Changing Mountain Conditions

Routes and conditions change year to year and even month to month as glaciers recede, so our descriptions are general only and may differ on the day. If reports from previous groups indicate unstable or dangerous conditions, we may recommend an alternative climb. The final decision on safety rests with your Peruvian Andes Adventures guide.

Route Progression

High Altitude Tactical Itinerary

Review the route day by day: altitudes, distances and acclimatisation.

Day 1 of 1

Climb Nevado Mateo from Huaraz and return

Distance

~6 km

Walking time

around 8–10 hours round trip

Highest point

5150m

Ascent / descent

+410m / -410m

Worth knowing

A 40m steep ice wall gains the glacier; some years short sections of steep hard ice.

From Huaraz we drive 2½ hours to the Punta Olímpica tunnel (4740m). From the left of the tunnel we climb an unmarked rocky trail and moraine, sometimes steeply, for about two hours to the Mateo glacier, where we put on crampons and rope up. A 40m steep ice wall (rope fixed if needed) gains the glacier, then steady 40–50° snow slopes — mixed with short sections of hard ice — lead in about two hours to the broad 5150m summit. We descend the same way and drive back to Huaraz by mid-afternoon.

Bespoke Cross Selling

Related routes

More routes in the same spirit — the same range or the same kind of trip. Tap any one for the full itinerary, or write to us and we will tailor your own.