Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit with Optional Climb (Diablo Mudo) — 15 Days

We drive from Huaraz to Chiquián with distant views of the Huayhuash, then descend through cactus-and-scrub country to the village of Llamac (3300m) for our first camp.

A relaxing, gradual walk up the Quebrada Llamac past Pocpa and Pallca, following a rarely-used road into a wide grassy valley flanked by quenual forest. A valuable extra acclimatisation day before the first pass; camp at Quartel Huain (4200m).

We cross our first pass, Cacanan Punta (4700m), then descend to camp at Laguna Mitucocha (4220m) below Jirishanka Grande, Rondoy and Ninashanca.

We flank the Jalca floodplain and ascend to the Paso de Carhuac (4650m), where a row of Huayhuash giants — Yerupajá Grande, Yerupajá Chico and Siulá Grande of “Touching the Void” fame — suddenly appears. We descend to camp at the large Laguna Carhuacocha (4150m).

An extra night in an idyllic spot. Options include a half-day hike around the lake, a day hike to the three glacial Siula lakes at the base of Siula Grande, a rest day, or trout fishing.

Heading east then up a side valley, we ascend to the Paso Carnicero (4600m) and make an easy descent past Laguna Carnicero to camp among farm homes in the open Huayhuash valley (4330m).

A steady climb to the Portachuelo de Huayhuash (4750m), with the Cordillera Raura appearing to the southeast, then a descent skirting Laguna Viconga to camp (4480m) near open-air hot springs.

Our highest pass: a sustained 2 to 3 hour climb to Punta Cuyoc (5000m), with breathtaking views of the Cordillera Raura and Sarapo. The first 50m of descent is steep and loose before an easy hike down the Quebrada Huanacpatay to camp (4300m).

A demanding climb to the Cerro San Antonio pass (4800m), with views of the Huayhuash giants, the lakes of Sarapococha, Santa Rosa and Jurau, and the Siula glacier of “Touching the Void”. A steep but safe 200m scree descent and a cattle trail lead to camp at Cutatambo in the Calinca valley (4100m).

We walk past the Base Camp of Siula Grande and visit the glacial lakes of Sarapococha and Santa Rosa, returning to camp for a relaxing afternoon.

An easy walk down the Calinca and Huayllapa valleys, then a hard 2 to 2½ hour afternoon climb to camp high on the pasture of Huatiac (4350m).

An easier day crossing the Punta Tapush pass (4750m), then a descent past Laguna Susucocha to a flat camp at Cashpapampa (4500m), the launch point for the optional climb.

Climbers leave at 2am, ascending a path then a steep 2-hour climb to the north ridge of Diablo Mudo, gaining the glacier over loose scree. Roped and in crampons, a steady 2 to 3 hours on ice reaches the 5229m summit; the descent is via the Huacrish valley to camp at Laguna Jahuacocha (4150m) — 11 to 12 hours. Non-climbers cross the Punta Yaucha (4800m) to the same camp.

A well-deserved rest day, with optional day hikes to Laguna Solteracocha and the Punta Sambuya (4750m) below Rondoy, or a tougher ascent of Cerro Amarillo (5000m) for views over the whole range, or trout fishing.

After a gentle descent we climb to the final pass, Pampa Llamac (4300m), for last views of the Huayhuash, then a long descent to Llamac where the bus returns us to Huaraz.