Three Climbs in the Ishinca Valley (Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju) — 7 Days

A 1½ hour drive to Pashpa or Collón (3400m), then a lovely gently-rising walk up the Quebrada Ishinca through quenual forest, with Tocllaraju ahead, to Ishinca Base Camp (4390m).

We climb the East Face of Urus, leaving at 4am up a steep ridge and moraine to the ice (3½ hours), then a steadier hour on ice and a final easier rock climb to the 5495m summit for sunrise over Tocllaraju, Palcaraju and Ishinca. A steep, long descent returns to camp.

A rest day to recover before the next climbs, which can also serve as a bad-weather day.

A 3am start, a steady climb to Lake Ishinca (2½ to 3 hours), then steeper moraine to the glacier. We rope up and climb the north face — a steady slope with a few steeper sections and a final 50° stretch of about 40m to the summit (5530m). Return the same way to Base Camp.

We leave Base Camp mid-morning carrying all our equipment and climb a steep moraine ridge over large rocks for 3 to 4 hours to Morena Camp (5300m), immediately below the glacier.

An early 1–2am start, steady pleasant climbing for 3½ hours to the first large crevasse, a steep 60m section (45–70°), then a ridge to a second crevasse and a steep, exposed 65m bergschrund (60–70°) where the guide fixes a rope. Above it, a gentle snow hike reaches the 6034m summit; we descend with several rappels to Base Camp.

A relaxing 4-hour walk down the Quebrada Ishinca valley to Pashpa or Collón, then drive back to Huaraz.