Is Chopicalqui suitable for beginners?

No. It is graded TD (difficult), with steep, technical ice sections. Previous experience on steep hard ice and good fundamental alpine and glacier skills are required.

How should I prepare and acclimatise?

You sleep and climb above 5500m, so we recommend a 4-day trek followed by a 2 to 4 day climb of a 5000m peak for acclimatisation and strength before Chopicalqui.

Do I carry my own equipment?

Porters carry tents, food and gear to Base Camp, but from there you carry your own personal and climbing equipment up to the high camps.

Expedition Dossier

Chopicalqui Climb 6354m — 5 Days

Chopicalqui (6354m), sometimes called the “third peak of Huascarán”, is a demanding mountain with sections of steep, technical ice climbing. Previous experience on steep hard ice is highly recommended; it is not a peak for beginners.

From the summit, climbers are rewarded with tremendous views of Huascarán, Chacraraju, Pisco, Huandoy, Contrahierbas, Ulta and many more.

Duration

5 Days

Grade

TD / Difficult — long, serious climbs

Highest Point

6354m

Llanganuco · Cordillera Blanca

The third peak of Huascarán

Grade: TD — difficult
Duration: 5 days
Summit: 6354m
Steep ice up to 65° in places
Not for beginners

The route follows a major glacier, then a broad ridge needing route-finding around crevasses and seracs, narrowing and steepening with exposure higher up. Most of the climb is on 40–50° snow, with a 200m section to 65° and belayed climbing some years. You need good fundamental alpine and glacier skills and experience on steep ice.

Expedition Logistics

Essential Trekking Notes & Rules

Acclimatisation

You must be very well acclimatised: you sleep and climb above 5500m. We recommend a 4-day trek (or day hikes) followed by a 2 to 4 day climb of a 5000m peak before Chopicalqui.

Carrying Gear

Porters carry tents, food and equipment to Base Camp, but you carry your own personal and climbing gear up to the high camps, so a large enough pack is essential.

Your Guide

The guide in charge of your climb is one of our local, experienced and professional UIAGM International Mountain Guides.

Changing Mountain Conditions

Routes and conditions change year to year and even month to month as glaciers recede, so our descriptions are general only and may differ on the day. If reports from previous groups indicate unstable or dangerous conditions, we may recommend an alternative climb. The final decision on safety rests with your Peruvian Andes Adventures guide.

Route Progression

High Altitude Tactical Itinerary

Review the route day by day: altitudes, distances and acclimatisation.

Technical Timeline // Day 01

Huaraz to Llanganuco, hike to Chopicalqui Base Camp

Distance

Time Window

45 minutes hike

Max Altitude

4430m

Delta Profile

A 3-hour drive down the Callejón de Huaylas to Yungay and up past the Llanganuco lakes, then a 45-minute walk carrying all equipment to Base Camp (4430m).

Bespoke Cross Selling

Related routes

More routes in the same spirit — the same range or the same kind of trip. Tap any one for the full itinerary, or write to us and we will tailor your own.