Which route will we climb?

Either the South East Face from the Paron Valley (5 days) or the North East Face from the Santa Cruz Valley (6 days). The safe face is often decided only weeks or days before, so allow extra reserve days.

Is Artesonraju suitable for beginners?

No. It is graded D+ to TD, technical and avalanche-prone, with sustained 55–65° ice (up to 80–85% on pitches). You must be experienced on steep ice with screws, anchors and rappel.

How long is the summit day?

On the South East Face the summit day is very long — 19 to 21 hours — as the summit marks the halfway point, with down-climbing and rappelling to retrace the route.

Expedition Dossier

Artesonraju Climb 6025m — 5 or 6 Days

Artesonraju (6025m) — the striking pyramid said to have inspired the Paramount logo — is extremely high-quality technical climbing on steep ice, with several hours of front-pointing on two technical axes on 55–65° slopes (up to 80° in places).

It is not a peak for beginners: climbers must be experienced on steep ice and confident with screws, stakes, anchors and rappel descents.

Duration

5 Days (Paron SE Ridge) or 6 Days (Santa Cruz NE Ridge)

Grade

D+ to TD / Technical — not for beginners

Highest Point

6025m

Cordillera Blanca · the Paramount pyramid

High-quality technical ice on a perfect pyramid

Grade: D+ to TD — technical
Summit: 6025m
Routes: Paron SE (5 days) or Santa Cruz NE (6 days)
Ice: 55–65°, up to 80–85%
Not for beginners

Conditions on Artesonraju are often difficult and unstable, with high avalanche risk; each year the safe line may be on a different face, decided only weeks or days before. Allow extra days in case the climb is moved to the longer North East route for safety. The itinerary shown is the South East Face from Laguna Paron.

Expedition Logistics

Essential Trekking Notes & Rules

Two Routes & Reserve Days

Artesonraju can be climbed via the South East Face from the Paron Valley (5 days, option 6) or the North East Face from the Santa Cruz Valley (6 days, option 7). Which face is safe is often decided only days before, so allow extra reserve days in case the longer NE route is needed.

Acclimatisation

You must be very well acclimatised, sleeping and climbing above 5000m. We recommend a 4 to 6 day trek followed by a 2 to 4 day climb of a 5000m peak beforehand.

Your Guide

The guide in charge of your climb is one of our local, experienced and professional UIAGM International Mountain Guides.

Changing Mountain Conditions

Routes and conditions change year to year and even month to month as glaciers recede, so our descriptions are general only and may differ on the day. If reports from previous groups indicate unstable or dangerous conditions, we may recommend an alternative climb. The final decision on safety rests with your Peruvian Andes Adventures guide.

Route Progression

High Altitude Tactical Itinerary

Review the route day by day: altitudes, distances and acclimatisation.

Technical Timeline // Day 01

Drive Huaraz to Laguna Paron, hike to Artesonraju Base Camp

Distance

~6 km

Time Window

2 hours hike

Max Altitude

4200m

Delta Profile

+0m / -0m

A 3½ to 4 hour drive to Caraz and Laguna Paron, with incredible views of the Garcilaso pyramid, the west wall of Chacraraju and Huandoy Norte. A 2-hour hike along the lake reaches Base Camp (4200m) at the head of the valley.

Bespoke Cross Selling

Related routes

More routes in the same spirit — the same range or the same kind of trip. Tap any one for the full itinerary, or write to us and we will tailor your own.