Peru Climbing Expeditions & Courses

Cordillera Blanca Climbing

Experience the thrill & adventure of climbing in the Cordillera Blanca in the Peruvian Andes with our professional local Peru UIAGM guides.

We offer a range of climbing & mountaineering adventures including:

*Climbing instruction from beginner to experienced level climbers
*Summits suitable for beginner level climbers, intermediate or advanced climbers
*Technical & challenging climbing

Climbing With Peruvian Andes Adventures Means:

• Professional qualified guides
• Individualised advice & program to suit your abilities
• High guide to client ratio
• Emphasis on Safety
• Companionship
• Challenge
• ADVENTURE!

Sam & Peter from the USA who climbed Ishinca & Tocllaraju with us said this:
While on our climb of Tocllaraju, we were witness to an accident. A group of 2 French tourists and their French guide fell into a large crevice. I cannot say enough for how professionally and quickly our guides took control of the situation and went about helping those in trouble. Later, I found out that it was both of their first accidents. This surprised me, because based on their actions to help and control the situation, one never would have known. Peruvian Andes Adventures is a great guide company that provides a quality experience with great professional guides.

Acclimatisation:

Good acclimatisation to the altitude is important before attempting any climbing in the Cordillera Blanca

You are sleeping & climbing above 5000m and this is very demanding and tiring for the body. Without sufficient acclimatisation the chances of becoming ill with altitude issues on the mountain are high, or you may experience a complete loss of energy and be unable to continue with the climb.

We always recommend an acclimatisation trek of minimum 4 days before departing to climb. We can advise on a suitable acclimatization program including day hikes and an acclimatisation trek. For climbing 6000m or technical peaks we additionally recommend a “warm up” climb of a 5000m peak for extra acclimatisation and strength.

Dates & Groups:

We do not have fixed departure dates for our climbing trips, but instead organise them on demand to suit clients travel plans. If you would like to join up with other people to have some company and to share costs, we can advertise your trip dates on our Join a Group Page

Support & Safety:

Guides:
All climbs are led by a qualified & licensed UIAGM International Mountain Guide. Assistant guides are licensed aspirant guides, members of Peruvian Mountain Guides Association. English speaking guides are available.

Client to Guide Ratio:
5000m and non technical peaks – maximum 3 clients per guide
6000m and technical peaks – maximum 2 clients per guide
Technical climbs Artesonraju, Huascaran and Alpamayo – UIAGM guides only

Yui from the UK did a climbing instruction course: “… “We cannot say enough good things about our 3 day climbing course and instruction on Vallunaraju. Everything was perfect , extremely professionally organised. We felt taken care of from the moment we stepped into the van to the base camp. Wilder is an extremely professional and experienced guide & instructor. We felt in safe hands with him & learned a lot about mountaineering from him. He is very patient with us who are slow and have no prior knowledge or experience. On climbing day he guided us step by step onto the peak and gave us the essential support and encouragement.”

Evacuation:
Climbing Groups are organised so that in the event of an accident, illness or tiredness there are always sufficient qualified climbing staff on the mountain to effect a rescue and / or evacuate clients safely back down the mountain

Guides have first aid training and carry a first aid kit & there is an emergency stretcher at base camp

We have a company evacuation policy and the guides are trained in what to do.
There is 24 hours communication to our office from where an evacuation will be co-ordinated. If necessary a rescue team from our company will be arranged

There is no helicopter rescue service in the Cordillera Blanca

Mobile phone coverage is at base camp on many climbs or there is emergency radio contact from base camps. On technical peaks where there is not base camp communication or no mobile phone coverage up on the mountain we have a sat phone. Guide has walkie talkie communication with base camp

Carrying:
Donkeys carry equipment to Base Camps on most of the mountains. Climbs are supported by porters who carry tents, equipment and food, but YOU need to carry your own sleeping bag, mattress, personal clothes and climbing gear where we use high camps. You can request to hire a private porter if you do not wish to carry your own equipment.

Base Camp:
In Base Camp we have a cook & dining tent with tables and chairs and a toilet tent, and full meals with fresh produce are prepared. At camps on the mountains light food and dehydrated food is prepared. Poo tubes with plastic bags are used to remove toilet waste from high camps on the ice.

Glacier Conditions, Weather & Time to Go:
The months when there is generally more settled weather are from May to September

The safer times to be climbing peaks depends on the altitude of the peak and the technical difficulty

5000m peaks and non-technical peaks can be climbed from May through to September. Low season climbing (October to April) is also possible, but summit success can be subject to good weather

6000m peaks and technical peaks generally are in better condition from around mid-June through to late August but some peaks are considered safe to attempt only in July & August

Global warming is causing weather conditions to be less predictable than in the past and in recent years there have been periods of bad weather and high winds during the so-called “dry” months of June, July & August. It cannot be guaranteed that there will be good climbing weather during the months of the recognised climbing season. High mountain weather is always volatile and you need to be prepared for sudden weather changes.

Glaciers in the Andes are retreating rapidly, with some glaciers that were climbed 30 years ago having now completely disappeared. This is causing conditions on the ice to change rapidly. This means that the routes used and the conditions on all the peaks are changing each year and even each month. The descriptions we have given are general only, and the routes used, conditions on the mountain or description of the routes may change considerably on the day you are climbing. Descriptions of routes in some guide books may also be out-dated.

Grading:
The grading of the climbs is an indication only of the level of difficulty.

Even climbs suitable for beginner climbers are graded medium to hard to reflect that the altitude makes climbing on any Cordillera Blanca peak physically demanding. Although many guidebooks describe some peaks as being “trekkers peaks” the approaches to all the mountains involve a steep & challenging hike up through moraine rock to reach the glacier and often there are short sections of steep climbing on ice even on the so-called “easier / beginner” peaks.

We do NOT consider that any climb in the Cordillera Blanca can be classified as a “trekking peak”. Altitude and terrain make all climbs physically demanding. A climb should only be considered if you are well acclimatised and generally already in good physical condition.

Grades are based on the French alpine grading system.

These are a general indication only of difficulty. Routes and conditions on all mountains are changing rapidly and level of difficulty may have changed at the time you are on any mountain.

PD (moderate) – Moderate snow climbs – a rope is necessary
AD (reasonably hard) – Routes with a fair amount of difficult climbing – snow & ice experience required
D (hard) – A reasonable amount of serious climbs of snow & ice with pitches up to severe standards
TD (very hard) – Very difficult, long serious climbs

Climbing Equipment:
Our climbing guides provide group rope, snow stakes and ice screws. You need to provide your own personal climbing equipment. It is available for hire in Huaraz and we can help organise gear hire for you. A complete gear list is provided when you inquire about climbing trips.

Insurance:
We recommend clients obtain mountaineering & travel insurance. The policy should cover activities of mountaineering and include medical, rescue from the mountains, evacuation and repatriation expenses, loss of personal items or money, costs associated with cancellation of flights or other disruption to travel.

Peru Police will NOT initiate any mountain rescue in the case of any serious incident (such as avalanche or crevasse fall) until they have received either payment by cash in advance or guarantee of payment to cover the costs of rescue. It is clients responsibility to carry insurance to cover the cost of rescue.

Carlos / USA/ Climbing Instruction in Ishinca Valley: At all times I felt welcome, attended to and very safe. Without any reservation I will highly recommend Peruvian Andes Adventures to everyone. You all far exceeded my expectations with your professionalism & sincerity in everything you all did. I sincerely thank each of you for your tireless efforts.

Peaks Suitable for Novice Climbers
and also Good Preparation Climbs for 6000m or Technical Peaks

• Climbing Course
• Urus & Ishinca
• Pisco
• Vallunaraju
• Mateo

Peaks Suitable for Intermediate Climbers
or Newer Climbers who have received some instruction in technical skills:

• Yanapaccha
• Chopicalqui
• Tocllaraju (3 Peaks Ishinca Valley Trip)
• Copa

Technical Peaks:
• Huascaran – subject to conditions
• Alpamayo
• Quitaraju
• Artesonraju
• Piramide
• Huandoy

The descriptions provided here are brief summaries only.

Contact us for more details and prices.

You can combine any two or more of the peaks for an extended climbing expedition.

Contact us for suggestions, information or programs for peaks not listed here.

Peaks described as suitable for beginners are also great acclimatisation climbs as preparation for 6000m or technical climbs.

Peaks described as suitable for intermediate climbers can also be good options for strong novice climbers who have received some instruction & have good basic climbing techniques.

Altitudes are quoted in metres – to convert to feet multiply by 3.28084

Some Cordillera Blanca Climbing Options: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Multiple Peru Cordillera Blanca Climbing Expeditions

There are many options to combine two or more peaks to make a multi climb expedition

These are just some of the possibilities:

 

 

 

Alessandro from Switzerland Climbed Yanapaccha & Alpamayo:
Dear Anne, It is now a month that I have returned from fulfilling the lifelong dream of standing on the tiny summit of the “Most Beautiful Mountain in the World”. My old body has now fully recovered from the stresses and strains of the expedition and my mind keep going back to those wonderful days. Everything went exactly as planned; and service, places and peoples far exceed my highest expectations. I am sure you know already that you can be very proud of all your team members; however, it doesn’t do any harm to repeat it here. They are competent, efficient, reliable, passionate, helpful, kind and a true joy to interact with, i.e. the best ambassadors Peru can desire!……
I am deeply grateful to you and Hisao for the perfect organisation of this grand adventure and please convey my best regards and my most sincere thank-you to the whole PAA team.
Cari saluti e a presto! Alessandro