Cordillera Blanca Climbing Pisco or Yanapaccha + Chopicalqui
Timing: 7 days
This is an exciting two climb challenge for strong clients who are well acclimatised to the altitude and who have some previous climbing experience, culminating in tackling 6354m Chopicalqui.
All the peaks are conveniently accessed from the Demanda Valley, location of the famous twin lakes of LLanganuco.
Previous experience of climbing on steep hard ice is highly recommended.
The peaks:
PISCO 5753m (18875 ft)
Grade: PD / Moderate snow climbs – Physically hard
Pisco is a suitable climb for beginner climbers but is also a rewarding climb for experienced climbers and it is an ideal preparation peak for the demanding Chopicalqui climb, providing extra acclimatisation and strength. Most years, there is no technical climbing on Pisco but there can be short steep sections, some hard ice to negotiate or a crevasse to navigate around.
YANAPACCHA 5460m (17913 ft)
Grade: AD- / some steep climbing
Yanapaccha is located very close to popular Pisco but is much less known and less frequented by climbers than Pisco. It is a moderately difficult climb with some steep sections and a final slope of up to 65 deg. to the summit.
Yanapaccha is a superb preparation peak for more technical & physically demanding climbing on Chopicalqui.
CHOPICALQUI 6354m (20847 ft)
Grade : TD / Difficult, long serious climbs
Chopicalqui, at 6354m, is sometimes referred to as the “third peak of Huascarán”. It is a demanding peak to climb, with sections of steep & technical climbing, crevasses to negotiate around and route finding necessary. Previous experience of climbing on steep hard ice is highly recommended, and a high standard of fitness and strength is also necessary. Chopicalqui is NOT a suitable peak for beginner climbers.
On Pisco Summit
Yanapaccha Summit
Chopicalqui 6354m
Fitness: This is a physically demanding program. The routes from Base Camps to Morena Camps on the mountains are on steep, loose moraine rock and it is necessary to carry your gear. The climbing on the glacier is sustained with continuous uphill and sometimes steep climbing made very demanding by the altitude. You should only consider these climbs if you are strong, with high fitness levels and able to carry a medium weight backpack on steep terrain over rocky, loose and uneven ground.
Itinerary for Pisco + Chopicalqui 09 Days
Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Cebollapampa in Llanganuco Valley 3850m. Climb on a good path to Pisco Base Camp. 4650m 2½ hours.
Day 2: Climb over moraine rocks to Morena Camp. 4900m 3 hours.
Day 3: 40 minutes climb on moraine to the glacier, then on the snow for about 4 to 5 hours to the summit. Return to Base Camp mid afternoon. About 10 to 12 hours total for the day.
Day 4: We load all equipment onto donkeys again & walk down to Cebollapampa 1½ hours and then relocate with 1 ½ to 2 hour more hiking to Chopicalqui Base Camp (4430m).
Day 5: REST DAY at Chopicalqui Base Camp or Bad Weather Day.
Day 6: Climb sometimes steeply on a rocky moraine ridge to Morena Camp 4820m. 5 to 6 hours.
Day 7: First climbing on moraine rock to the glacier. Then on snow slopes of varying degrees in steepness and negotiating around several crevasses to a High Camp on the snow 5380m. 5 to 6 hours.
Chopicalqui High Camp
Day 8: Climb to the summit. There are some seracs and crevasses to avoid and several sections of steep & technical climbing. Descend back to High Camp or Morena Camp if you are feeling strong. 10 to 13 hours for the day.
Day 9: Descend to Base Camp 5 to 6 hours, then return to Huaraz by private van.
Enjoying the view of Huascaran from the Chopicalqui Summit
Itinerary for Yanapaccha + Chopicalqui 07 Days
Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Cebollapampa, passing by the famous twin lakes of Llanganuco and then continue up to a hairpin bend in the road at 4580m. From here we hike to Morena Camp for about 3 to 3 ½ hours to the campsite. (5000m)
Day 2: The initial ascent on to the Yanapaccha glacier is usually a short steep ice climb & then there is more gentle terrain on the glacier We negotiate crevasse fields to arrive at the west face of Yanapaccha which we climb to the summit. The last 200m to reach the summit is steep 65 deg. About 3 to 4 rappels are required during the descent. Return back to Morena Camp & then back to the road which we follow down hiking before taking a short cut through to Chopicalqui Base Camp 4430m. About 11 to 12 hours for the day.
Day 3: REST DAY at Chopicalqui Base Camp or Bad Weather Day.
Day 4: Climb sometimes steeply on a rocky moraine ridge to Morena Camp 4820m. 5 to 6 hours.
Day 5: First climbing on moraine rock to the glacier. Then on snow slopes of varying degrees in steepness and negotiating around several crevasses to a High Camp on the snow 5380m. 5 to 6 hours.
Day 6: Climb to the summit. There are some seracs and crevasses to avoid and several sections of steep & technical climbing. Descend back to High Camp or Morena Camp if you are feeling strong. 10 to 13 hours for the day.
Day 7: Descend to Base Camp 5 to 6 hours, then return to Huaraz by private van.
Download PDF for climb description & notes
Contact us for more information and prices.
If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private climb or would be happy to join with other people.