Cordillera Blanca Climbing Chopicalqui (6354m)
Timing: 5 Days
Grade: TD / Difficult, long serious climbs
Chopicalqui is considered by some to be the third peak of Huascaran at 6354m.
It is a demanding peak to climb, with sections of steep and technical ice climbing. Previous experience of climbing on steep hard ice is highly recommended, and a high standard of fitness and strength is also necessary. Chopicalqui is NOT a suitable peak for beginner climbers.
From the summit climbers are rewarded with tremendous views of the surrounding peaks of Huascarán, Yanapaqcha, Chacraraju, Pisco and Huandoy, as well as Contrahierbas, Ulta, Hualcan and many others.
The route begins following a major glacier uphill, then steepens onto a broad ridge with route-finding skills needed to avoid crevasses and seracs. Higher up the ridge narrows and steepens, and while it is not highly technical it is exposed in some places.
Most of the climb is on snow slopes of 40 to 50 deg. but there is a section of about 200m with slopes of up to 65deg. with belayed climbing on snow and ice necessary some years.
Daniel from the Netherlands Climbed Pisco & Chopicalqui and was the only client to make the summit of Chopicalqui the week he was there said: My compliments to the guide Rodolfo, the cook and porters. They are really willing in trying to get you on top of the summit. Be proud of them.
Kyoko from Japan who said: “I was really happy that we succeeded in the summit of Chopi. The guide Wilder was very friendly and helped us so much…. Wilder helped me when I felt very difficult to pass a large crevasse, & then I could pass it easily. Sunrise on the summit of Chopi was above my expectation – so nice! This trip will be my best memory. Thank you very much for everything.”
Day 1: Drive 3 hours from Huaraz up the valley Quebrada Llanganuco. Walk 45 minutes to a Base Camp 4430m, carrying all equipment.
Day 2: Climb sometimes steeply on a rocky moraine ridge to Morena Camp 4820m. 5 to 6 hours
Day 3: First climbing on moraine rock to the glacier. Then on snow slopes of varying degrees in steepness and negotiating around several crevasses to a High Camp on the snow 5380m. 5 to 6 hours
Day 4: Climb to the summit. There are some seracs and crevasses to avoid and several sections of steep & technical climbing, with some ice wall climbing up to 75 deg. possible some years. There is a section of exposed climbing and a large crevasse to negotiate to reach the summit. Descend back with some rappels necessary to High Camp or Morena Camp, if you are feeling strong. 10 to 13 hours for the day.
Day 5: Descend to Base Camp 5 to 6 hours, then return to Huaraz by private van.
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If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private climb or would be happy to join with other people.