Cordillera Blanca Climbing Vallunaraju with Alpamayo Expedition
Timing: 15 days
Grade : Technical climbing, not suitable for beginner climbers
This expedition has been designed to aid with acclimatisation & enhance fitness, climbing skills and strength in preparation for climbing Alpamayo, once voted to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.
The expedition program commences in Huaraz doing three day hikes to progressively higher altitudes to help with acclimatisation to the altitude.
A day of ice wall climbing & rescue practice and revision of techniques followed by a climb to the summit of Vallunaraju is ideal preparation for the technical climbing on Alpamayo and gives you opportunity to get to know & develop trust with your guide(s)
Vallunaraju: 5686m (18655 ft)
Grade: AD- / Moderate snow slopes – some steep climbing
Great location for climbing instruction & ice wall climbing
Vallunaraju is easily accessed from Huaraz and with a wide variety of rock, ice forms, slopes, ice walls and crevasses is an ideal site for climbing instruction. It is where the Peruvian mountain guides go for training courses and to practice.
Alpamayo 5947m (19511 ft)
Grade: D – steep & technical climbing
Renowned for its almost perfect pyramid shape and uniquely Andean ice flutings, Alpamayo is on the “wish list” for many mountaineers.
The climbing is steep and technical with several hours of continual front pointing and using two technical ice axes on steep slopes averaging 55 to 65 deg and up to 80 deg. on short sections
Climbers need to be experienced on steep ice, and comfortable with using ice screws, snow stakes, anchor systems and descent by rappel. The Alpamayo climb is NOT suitable for beginner climbers.
Day 1: Arrive Huaraz (3090m)
Day 2: Acclimatisation Hike to Macashca Hills (highest point 4200m)
Day 3: Acclimatisation Hike to Laguna Churup (highest point 4450m)
Day 4: Acclimatisation Hike to Laguna Ahuaccocha (highest point 4560m)
Day 5: Drive 1½ hours from Huaraz to the Llaca Valley. Then we climb steeply up a ridge for 2 to 3 hours to Morena Camp Vallunaraju 5130m.
Days 6: Ice wall climbing, instruction, rescue practice on Vallunaraju Glacier , based from Vallunaraju Morena Camp
Day 7: A steady and not steep on good snow slopes towards the summit . The last 60m to the summit is steeper and will feel exposed. Return back to the road in Llaca Valley and then to Huaraz. About 10 hours to climb & descend
Day 8: Rest Day in Huaraz & prepare for Alpamayo
Day 9: Drive 3 hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa. Then hike to Llamacorral following the famous Santa Cruz trek route. Altitude at Llamacorral 3750m. 4 to 5 hours
Day 10: Hike to Base Camp at the top of the Quebrada Arhuaycocha 4250m. 4 to 5 hours
Donkeys carry all equipment as far as base camp & return to Cashapampa. You carry just a light day pack on the trek in.
Day 11: Flexible. Rest Day while the porters carry gear to High Camp.
Or use this day as a bad weather day.
Or there is an option to continue up to an Intermediate camp Morena Camp today instead of going direct from Base Camp to High Camp in a single day
Day 12: First climbing on in places steep & slippery moraine rock. Once on the ice, the climbing is varied between easier slopes and steep ice slopes up to 70 deg. In some years there has been about 200m of ice cliff to climb and the guide may fix a rope here. About 6 to 7 hours testing climbing to reach High Camp, situated on a saddle between Alpamayo & Quitaraju at 5450m
Day 13: A steep & technical climb on ice to the summit with several hours of continual front pointing. Fixed rope may be used depending on clients skills and the number of other climbers on the route. Several rappels are needed to descend. Return to sleep at High Camp. 8 to 9 hours
Day 14: Return to Base Camp. 5 to 6 hours
Day 15: Return to Cashapampa. 7 to 8 hours and return to Huaraz in our private van.
Download PDF for climb description & notes
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Contact us for more information and prices.
If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private climb or would be happy to join with other people.