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Cordillera Blanca Climbing Ishinca Valley Three Peaks

(Urus, Ishinca & Tocllaraju)


Hiking to Ishinca Base Camp – Tocllaraju is at the Left

Timing: 7 days
Grade: Moderate to Technical Climbing

From one base camp in the Ishinca Valley we climb three peaks. Urus and Ishinca are non technical peaks with pleasant climbing and ideal warm up climbs for Tocllaraju.

We climb these two peaks for extra acclimatisation & strength and then you should be ready to tackle the more technical Tocllaraju, and perhaps your first 6000m peak.

The three peaks:

Urus: 5495m (18028 ft)
Grade: PD- /Moderate snow climbing, physically demanding

Ishinca: 5530m (18143 ft)
Grade: PD- /Moderate snow climbing, physically demanding

Tocllaraju: 6034m (19797 ft)
Grade: D / Hard / Some steep & technical climbing

Tocllaraju has some sections of steep and technical climbing, and we recommend that clients have previous experience climbing on snow and ice with crampons and ice axe, and experience with belay techniques, anchor placement and descent by rappel. Tocllaraju is not a suitable climb for clients who do not have good basic climbing skills.

Donkeys carry equipment to Base Camp. Porters carry tents, food, climbing rope up to Morena Camp on Tocllaraju and return, but you need to carry your own personal gear.

Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to the village of Pashpa or Collon. Hike to Base Camp at 4390m. 4 to 5 hours.

Day 2: Climb Urus East face. A non technical climb to the summit followed by a steep descent on a moraine ridge back down to Ishinca Base Camp. 7 hours.

Day 3: Rest Day.

Day 4: Climb Ishinca on a steady slope and not too steep apart from the final 20 metres to the summit. Return to Base Camp. 9 to 12 hours depending on fitness.


Celebrating Ishinca Summit

Day 5: Climb on moraine to Morena Camp Tocllaraju, carrying all equipment. Camp is a flat area in the rock moraine at 5300m. 3½ to 4 hours

Day 6: Climb to the summit Tocllaraju. There are long sections of relatively easy climbing mixed with steep and sometimes technical & exposed climbing. Return back to Base Camp in Ishinca Valley. 11 to 13 hours.


Climbing on Tocllaraju

Day 7: Walk down the Ishinca Valley to Pashpa and return to Huaraz in our private van.

Download PDF for climb description & notes
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Contact us for more information and prices.

If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private climb or would be happy to join with other people.



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