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Cordillera Blanca Climbing Mateo 5150m


Timing: One Day ex Huaraz & return to Huaraz
Grade: PD / Moderate snow climbs – Beginner suitable

Nevado Mateo Mountain is an exhilarating & physically challenging climb that can be made in just one day from Huaraz and return to Huaraz.

The climb is suitable for beginner level climbers with nice snow slopes, although in some years or later in the climbing season there can be some short sections of steep hard ice which the guide(s) would help you with

Mateo is located in the spectacular Ulta Valley surrounded by many of the biggest peaks in the Huascaran National park – including Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Chacraraju and Ulta

The day starts with early departure from Huaraz at 02:00am with a 2.5 hour drive taking us through the town of Carhuaz and then the Andean village of Shilla. Then into the Ulta Valley where the road climbs on a series of steep zig zag corners to reach the impressive Punta Olimpica Tunnel at 4740m carved through the top of the mountain.

The climb starts from the left of the tunnel climbing up an unmarked rocky trail and over moraine rock, sometimes steeply, for around two hours until we reach the Mateo glacier where we put on climbing gear (harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe) and rope up.


Happy climbers approaching Mateo Summit

To get onto the glacier we have to initially climb up a 40m steep ice wall and the guide will fix a rope if necessary and help you with this. The rest of the route is a steady climb on mostly nice snow slopes up 40 to 50 degrees, mixed with some steep short sections of hard ice which the guide will help you with. It is around 2 hours climb from the start of the glacier to the summit.

On the broad summit you are rewarded with spectacular close views of all the surrounding mountains and good photo opportunities.

Descend back the same way and drive to Huaraz arriving tired but happy around mid afternoon

Download PDF for climb description & notes
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Contact us for more information and prices.

If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be Climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private Climb or would be happy to join with other people.


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